Part the Second. Day 2 Sunday 6th March - Tyne Bridge to Wylam.

The aches and pains of last week have largely gone but Nigel has now picked up the lurg and is coughing and spluttering along with chewing Victory V's; Fisherman's Friends and paracetamol! Starting bright and early (10am-ish) we headed from the Sunday Market on the Quayside over the Swing Bridge (still on its original 1870's bearings!!) and onto the Gateshead Quayside.

This was surprisingly interesting (and that's no downer on Gateshead, just that we expected to be trolling through an industrial wasteland!). Passing the old Dunstan Coal Staithes (when will they repair the fire damage?), we continued through the new residential area designed by the Hemingways (of Red and Dead fame) which was very well laid out. However, at this point we had just left the riverside and now headed into the industrial bit, but not too much of it!

We managed to sneak back down to the riverside once we'd negotiated the Metrocentre and strolled alongside the railway (to Carlisle) for some distance. Unfortunately, a couple of the proposed tracks and paths alongside the river have not yet come to fruition, although we noticed some headway near Blaydon, so we had to persevere alongside the main road for a short distance before cutting off down towards the river again and subsequently to the Newburn Bridge. By this time, nearly 8 miles, the sun had been warming us up so well that refreshment was essential to stave off dehydration! Fortunately, upon crossing over the bridge we came found the Boathouse again - you may remember that we were less than impressed with this place last year - however, it's now under new management and serving real ale!!! Well what a place to catch our collective breaths, refresh and have lunch, not forgetting the all important netty break!

The sun continued to shine on us as we wound our way through Newburn Riverside Park and along the Tyne. We cut inland again once the cycle-way became adjacent to the path as it looked much less likely to suffer from erosion/subsidence than the precarious river's edge path!

Once on this we strode out towards Wylam, passing the birthplace of George Stephenson (he of The Rocket and other railway stuff), a tiny 2 room dwelling! Onward we went and Wylam came into view with the bridge over the river leading to the railway line and our target - The Boathouse Inn, with its selection of 14 hand pulls (cider and ale) - all handily placed for the train back to Newcastle!

So, with about an hour to kill before the next train we repaired to the bar (absolutely heaving with people and dogs!) for a couple of Tyneside Blondes, a Sunny Daze and a Scrumpy! Suitably refreshed we managed to catch the 4:20 rattler into Newcastle which gave us a selection of views of our walks both today and of last year.

All in all, a glorious walk in glorious weather.

Onward and upward!

We're back! Day 1 Sunday 27th February - South Shields to the Tyne Bridge

Just when you thought it was all over and we had retired to the bar to ease our many and varied aches and pains, Spring is nearly here and so is the Three Tyne Trial (oops Freudian slip! I mean Trail obviously). We've picked ourselves up, dusted ourselves down and started all over again!!!

Enough of the waffle - we are walking from South Shields to the source of the North Tyne, which is, as far as we can work out, somewhere around the appropriately named Deadwater Fell!

So it was on Sunday gone we lined up on South Shields Pier on a bright and breezy morning to walk the 12.6 (ish) miles to the Tyne Bridge. We did it of course although Anne &; Nigel couldn't move the next day. Radio silence from the Willis's - I'm working on the theory that we would have heard if they had to be hospitalised.

It was actually most(ly) enjoyable - especially the bit sitting down on the Shields Ferry! We passed two Roman Forts (Arbeia and Segedunum), we walked across the entrance to the new Tyne Tunnel (no jams yet!), we walked through a park in North Shields and along old waggonways in Willington Quay and Walllsend. We saw the backbone of an old keel boat beached on the river bank and walked through the remains of St Anthony's Lead Works. The last bit is the wonderful walk into Newcastle, with the bridges, SJP, the Baltic and Sage all opening out in front of us fantastic.

Amazingly - no pubs were visited but as next week's walk ends in Wylam I fear we will have to visit the Boat - still it's only one pub (with 14 real ales on tap!!). Bring it on!

Day 9 Garrigill to the Source!

It was muggy and overcast, but we set off in high spirits - this was the beginning of the end! Today we will find the Source of the South Tyne (probably!). Route finding was actually quite easy for once (see above) the signposts got it right!

 First though we had several surprises:

   - a brilliant detour to Ashgill Force

   - a bull and his field full of his harem and offspring

   - amazingly colourful meadows

   - a waterfall on the Tyne - Dorthgill Force (left) - no, we didn't know there was a waterfall on the Tyne either!

Best surprise of all, was just how wide the Tyne remained - it only became a stream in the last mile. Mind you it then was so narrow that we could kiss across the water with ease!

After this it was easy! There was a large sculpture with a hole in it through it was possible to view a small hole in the ground! Ahh yes ... the Source.

It stopped raining and the wind reduced a little - so we had a celebratory picnic (a quick bite to eat anyway) and legged it down the hill to the car.

Then it was back into Alston for a cream tea and a discussion on what to do next. Somehow (and we can't blame alcohol as we were drinking tea) we decided to do it all again - from the other side and this time go to the North Tyne. That was when I realised that this wasn't the beginning of the end at all, but just the end of the beginning. Oh well - roll on November and.....

South Shields to the Source of the North Tyne!!!

Day 8 – Saturday 17 July – Slaggyford to Garrigill

We set off again from a very wet Slaggyford station and were soon again beside the South Tyne, still a very impressive, fast flowing river. However we continued to have close contact with the old South Tynedale Railway and marvelled at the engineering and architecture bringing this line so far up the valley feeling sad that it is no longer a working line. Then suddenly we saw steam rising from the track ahead, our pace quickened, could it be? Next we burst onto Kirkhaugh station like excited characters from “The Railway Children” waving enthusiastically at the driver of the little steam engine as well as the passengers. Everyone waved happily back; maybe things aren’t so sad after all. We had found the preserved South Tynedale Railway, which runs from Alston to Kirkhaugh.

We continued to follow the railway line, now of course complete with track, and had plenty of sightings of the river, as the two are never far apart for the rest of the way to Alston. Beautiful orchids on the way were an extra treat.

We skirted the edge of Alston, which is still a thriving, bustling market town. However passing the old boarded up, shut down Tynedale Café brought back memories of our pre-car days when the Wright Brothers coach came through Alston on the way to Keswick and stopped for us all to have a cuppa at the café.

In improving weather we continued on to Garrigill. The scenery on this stretch is just beautiful with stunning views down the valley, trees resplendent in their summer green and the river twisting and turning, sometimes rushing over little water falls sometimes quietly meandering through lush green meadows but still very much a river definitely refusing to become a stream.

The village of Garrigill nestling in the valley was certainly a welcome sight although we were sad to see the pub, The Dragon, had closed down. Thoughts of the meal booked at the Cumberland Hotel in Alston soon took over as we clambered into the car and set off back to Alston.

Posted on behalf of TTT2

Day 7 - Sunday 13 June - Haltwhistle to Slaggyford

A great breakfast at the Yew Tree Chapel started us off well, and the early morning midges kept us moving. The odd bit of light rain in the morning didn't deter us, and the scenery just got better and better.

Featherstone Bridge and Featherstone Castle were beautiful and fascinating and it was great to walk along the banks of the Tyne again. Route finding was a bit, err, "challenging" at times but we didn't shout at each other too much. Steve & Maggie revisited old haunts as we touched on the Pennine Way, and Anne & Nigel were kind enough not to show their boredom.

The walk over Lambley viaduct is simply stunning, with breathtaking views - you definitely need a head for heights. Lunch time brought a return of the midges but at least they kept us moving.

Rain in the afternoon didn't dampen our spirits, although we did well not to divert to the Kirkstyle Inn to dry out and get wet all at once.

At least the finish along the old South Tyne Railway line (what on earth made them close such a beautiful railway line) made the walking easy so the rain wasn't too much of a problem. Ending at Slaggyford station was "different", but the hot drinks back at the car soon revived us.

The real climbs start over the next 2 days - Slaggyford to Garrigil - should be a good one.

Day 6 - Sat 12 June - Allen Banks to Haltwhistle

So, recovered from my birthday celebrations (a lunchtime/afternoon visit to the Boathouse at Wylam) we slapped on the suncream (the sky was clear blue!) and set off out of the carpark towards the river. Negotiating around a crop-planted field was a bit tricky but led into a field of cows and their calves (ahh!) with a huge white bull keeping his harem in check, so swiftly into the woods and out of his glare.

Along very quiet country lanes and tracks nearby the river gave us tantalising glimpses of the water occasionally leavened by the rush of trains to and from Newcastle and Carlisle. Into woods once more for our views down to the river for lunch and thence on towards Haltwhistle via the newly opened bypass (A69) and onto the totally unexpected Alston Arches Bridge - now a wildlife corridor and into Haltwhistle station.

Sweating profusely, we rested a bit to watch some of the locals try to catch the train to Carlisle and not! Mind you, dashing from the pub as the train arrives and wearing high-heels and short skirts and having to negotiate the platform bridge didn't help! Anyway, they went back to the pub until the next one came!

We, however, decamped to our overnight stay in Slaggyford - the Yew Tree Chapel - quite stunning!

Next time - Haltwhistle to Slaggyford - a damp one!

Day 5 - 5th May 2010 - Warden to Allen Banks

Another lovely spring day as we set off from Warden down a quiet country lane which turned out to be used by the locals as a race track! Luckily there was a footpath and after half a mile we turned off and enjoyed a lovely stroll along the river bank for a couple of miles.

We then plunged north off the riverside in search of Newbrough and, we hoped, loos (Anne & Maggie) and pub (Nigel & Steve). Sadly we were disappointed - the OS map lied as both public loos and pub were no longer there. Newbrough didn't disappoint however - a tiny village with amazing buildingd (including a Town Hall). Newbrough definitely boxes above its weight.

We climbed higher onto the side of the valley - quite a lot of huffing and puffing as this was definitely the hardest slope we have tackled so far - but we were rewarded with fabulous views to a snow topped Cheviot in the north and then, round a corner, an equally snowy Cross Fell to the south. The latter is actually beyond the final destination of this stage of the trail - the source of the South Tyne.

We picked up the John Martin Trail - hands up those who knew John Martin was Haydon Bridge's most famous son - hands up those who know who John Martin is! Relief all round as we made it to Haydon Bridge and, with unerring accuracy, Steve  Nigel navigated their way to the GBG, the Railway.

The rest of the walk was a lovely sunny yomp across fields and through woods (with only a few discussions about route finding!). We staggered into Allen Banks carpark for a cuppa after over 11 miles in 7 hours. Sadly no pub, but the loos were open!

Next time: Allen Banks to Haltwhistle - a short walk.